I would say the majority of surfers have a bias toward their short-term memory. It seems like every other wave is the best ride of the day, or a session with a couple of great sets is “the best day of surf for the year”.

But nobody likes surfing with someone who has a long-term memory. Those guys remind you how it was better three weeks ago or how the guy before you had a better ride. They hang onto those experiences, which inhibit them from enjoying the NOW to its fullest.

Try to love whatever you’re doing today as if it is the best it has ever happened. Just try.